Easy Mini Tutorial- Blooming Table Runner

 After I finished this table runner, I thought to myself.  That was easy.  I should have made a tutorial.  I think I can still walk you through it without the step by step pictures- it is that easy. 

Ingredients:

• 1 pack of petite size charms (or cut some regular charms into 2.5 squares).  You need 28 petite charms.
• 1/2 yard focus fabric for the center (mine is the dark chocolate with those big blooms)
• 1.5 inch strip of contrasting fabric (your strip needs to be at least 29 inches long)
• 1/4 yard binding material
• 1/2 yard of backing material
• 1/2 yard of your favorite batting (I used warm and natural scrap I had from another project)

Prepare your fabric:

• Lay your charms out into rows, 2 rows of 7 charms (for each end cap of the runner).  4 rows total  Sew them together, you know the drill.  Iron the rows in opposite directions, and then sew 2 rows together for end "caps".  Repeat for the opposite end.  They should look like the photo below, just not attached to the focus piece or the contrasting fabric yet.

•  Iron your contrasting fabric strip wrong sides together.  This piece is going to peek out.  It will not be sewn in on both sides. 
• Now is the time to check your measurements.  My petite charm end caps measured 14.5 inches long.  So, I am going to cut my green contrast strip to that length.  If your charms measurement is different, just cut according to that length because you want everything to match up nicely.
• You also need to cut your focus fabric that length.  So, again make your adjustments, but mine measures 14.5 long by 25 inches wide.  If you don't want your runner that big, you may want to make the width smaller.  IT IS OKAY.  Make it yours. 
• Now that everything is prepared it is time to sew some more. On each end of your focus fabric (that is my brown fabric with the big blooms), you want to sandwich the raw edge of the green contrast fabric (not the folded edge) between your focus fabric and your charms.  So lay the focus fabric right side up, lay the green raw edges on top of that, and then put the charms right side down on top.  Be sure to match up all 4 raw edges and pin.  Sew with a 1/4 inch seam.  You have one end done!  Repeat for the other end.  IRON.  Congratulations the top of your super easy Blooming Table Runner is done.  Don't you feel accomplished? 

• After you make your yummy quilting sandwich (consisting of your backing, batting, and top),  now you get to quilt it.  Anything would look nice, even straight lines.  Whatever you do, don't completely sew down your green contrast strip.  I chose to meander in the center, cross hatch over the charms, and I sewed just to the inside of the seam of the green contrast strip.  If you enlarge the photo, you can see what I did. 
• Finish it by binding using your favorite method. 

Finished runner 14.5 X 34

If you have any questions, or if I lost you in a step...please feel free to ask!

The Big Daddy Laundry Bag- Tutorial

This laundry bag would make a great graduation gift. 

XL Big Daddy Laundry Bag:

Cut:
Top of Bag (main focus fabric): 24 1/2 inches X WOF (Width of Fabric)
Bottom of Bag (secondary focus fabric): 12 inches X WOF
Lining: 37 1/2 inches X WOF

Handle (optional): 6 inches X 15 inches inches

Drawstrings:  3 inches X WOF (cut 2)

Step 1:  Pin and sew the bottom of the outer bag to the top of the outer bag (RST = right sides together).  Press open.  The outer fabric should now be the same size as the lining.  If not, trim.

Step 2:  Pin the outer fabric and the lining piece together (RST).  Sew all 4 sides, leaving a 5 inch hole in the bottom for turning.

Before you turn the bag, snip all 4 corners to decrease bulk.  Reach into the 5 inch hole, and pull the bag right sides out.  Make sure to push out all corners and seams.  Iron.  Fold the raw edges of the hole inside and stitch shut.



Step 3:  Fold the top of the bag over (towards the lining) 1 1/2 inch.  Pin.  Sew down.  This will create the pocket for your draw string.  You will want to fold over an 1 1/2 despite the photo below.  It will make the drawstring step easier.

At this time you may wish to top stitch across the outer bag where the bottom connects to the top to add support to the seam.  (optional)

Step 4:  Sew your handle (optional).  Take your handle piece.  Iron the end pieces (6 inch sides) in half an inch. 

Now, iron the piece in half the long way. 

Open.  Now fold each raw edge in so they meet in on that crease you created. 

At this time you may want to slip in a 1 1/2 inch X 18 inch piece of interfacing. 

Fold and iron in half.  Stitch around the open edges. 

Step 5:  Create your drawstrings.  Sew the two 3 inch pieces together on one end (RST).  Press open.  Now press them in the same manner you did the handle and stitch.  This creates about a one inch finished "string".

Step 6:  Measure down the side of your bag 5 inches from the top of your bag.  This is where you will pin one end of your handle.  Measure down the side of your bag 10 inches from the top of your bag.  Pin the other handle end there. 

Now fold the other side of your bag over (RST) on top of your handles.  Pin the sides and the bottom of the bag.  STARTING at the 1 1/2 stitch line (the draw string pocket) stitch down the side of the bag and across the bottom.  BE sure to reinforce the stitching at the top and the handles several times.  DO NOT sew the drawstring pocket shut.  Start after it. 

Step 7:  Now you have to box the bottom of  the bag.  With the bag still inside out, pinch the bottom corner and center the seam.  See below.  It is very important that the seam is centered.

Lay the pinched corner on your cutting board. You want to measure exactly 2 1/2 inches from the tip of the corner and draw a line across the corner of the bag. This will be your sewing line and will give your bottom a a nice, square bottom. Lift up your ruler and pin to secure. Repeat this process for the other side of your bag (which does not have a side seam, so you will have to be careful) and both corners on your lining.

Step 8:  Turn right side out.  Thread your drawstring through your pocket.  I use a safety pin on one end to assist in this. 

Knot the ends of your strings.  Your bag is done!

If you think this laundry bag is a bit long for your taste, here are the measurements for the Large Big Daddy Laundry Bag.

Large Big Daddy Laundry Bag

Top of Bag (main focus fabric): 19 1/2 inches X WOF (Width of Fabric)

Bottom of Bag (secondary focus fabric): 12 inches X WOF
Lining: 32 1/2 inches X WOF
Handle (optional): 6 inches X 15 inches inches

Drawstrings: 3 inches X WOF (cut 2)

Other ideas:

• you could place a pocket on the front of the bag
• embroider the front of the bag.
• you could put a shoulder strap on it instead of a handle
• use ribbon or small rope instead of making drawstrings

The Dandy Bag Tutorial

Gather your materials:

Main bag fabric:  1/2 yard of floral fabric (mine is flowers)- non directional prints only
Top of your bag and your bag lining:  3/4 yard of accent fabric (mine is dots)
Bag band:  2 1/2 X Width of Fabric (WOF) (mine is blue)
Handles:  1/3 yard accent fabric (mine is blue)
Pellon Fusible Fleece:  1/2 yard
Pellon Craft Fusible Heavy Weight:  3 inches by 28 inches (or you can just purchase a 1/4 yard)
thread
pins
pinking shears
rotary cutter/mat/ruler

Cut your materials:

Main bag fabric (do not use a directional print here):
24 inches  X 14 1/2 inches

Top of the bag fabric:
WOF X 3 1/2 inches, subcut this piece into 2 pieces that measure 3 1/2 inches X 14 1/2 inches
***special note:  originally I had planned this piece to be bigger, please do not look at the size of my topper in my picture below, it is an inaccurate size.  The size is meant to be 3 1/2 inches X 14 1/2 inches not the size I originally cut mine.

Band of fabric (this is the piece that seperates the top from the main bag fabric):
WOF X 2 1/2 inches, subcut this into 2 pieces that measure 2 1/2 X 14 1/2.  Wrong sides together, iron each piece in half so that is 1.25 inches X 14 1/2 inches. 

Handles: 
Cut 2 of these:  4 1/2 inches X WOF, then trim them so that each handle measures 27 1/2 inches in length. 

Lining:
Cut 14 1/2 inches X 30 inches.

Pellon Fusible Fleece (Outer bag interfacing):  14 1/2 inches X 30 inches
Pellon Craft Heavy Weight Fusible Interfacing:
cut 2 of these:  1 inch X 27 1/2 inches

Step one:  Assembling the outer bag
On each end (measures 14 1/2 inches) of the main body fabric (right sided up), sandwich the raw edges of your folded/ironed band fabric in between your main body fabric and your top bag fabric (right side down). Pin all 3 layers together.  Below I show you the sandwich on both ends.

Sew each end with a quarter inch seam.

On each end, iron the top of the bag fabric open.  Leave the band fabric pointed towards the main body fabric.

Step two:  Fusing the interfacing and quilting the bag

I fused the fleece to the wrong side of the bag.  I like quilted bags, so then I meandered/stippled small loops all over the outer bag. Be careful not to stipple down the band.  You can easily stipple the main body by lifting up the band fabric while stitching.  Then it will still be "free" and not tacked down.

If you are not comfortable stippling, this is optional.  Your bag will turn out just fine without the stippling.  You can do as much or as little quilting as you want to.  If you wanted to just stitch in the ditch of the band, your bag will turn out just fine that way, too.  After I am done quilting, I like to take my square and make sure my bag is still nice and square.  Sometimes I tidy up the edges a bit. 

Step 3:  Sewing the sides of the outer bag and the inner lining

Fold the bag with right sides together (RST), and pin the sides.  Be sure to match up the seams of the band and the top of the bag, so that you don't end up with an uneven bag. 

Pin in place.  Stitch up each side (I go from the bottom to the top) with a 3/8ths of an inch seam (I just follow my walking foot because it seems wider).  Be sure to reinforce your stitches where you begin and end.  When you are done, reverse the bag and check that your seams line/match up perfectly. 

Repeat with your lining piece except on one side of your lining, you need to leave a 4 to 6 six inch hole.  This will be VERY IMPORTANT later.  You can see below where I place a horizontal pin to remind myself not to sew in between the two pins.

Now you have to box the bottom of your outer bag.  With the bag still inside out, pinch the bottom corner and center the seam.  See below.  It is very important that the seam is centered.

Lay the pinched corner on your cutting board.  You want to measure exactly 2 inches from the tip of the corner and draw a line across the corner of the bag.  This will be your sewing line and will give your bottom a a nice sturdy, square bottom.  Lift up your ruler and pin to secure.  Repeat this process for the other side of your bag and both corners on your lining. 

Go to your sewing machine and sew across the line you just drew on each of the corners of the outer piece and the lining.  Reinenforce your stitching. 

Turn your bag and lining right side out, and check to make sure your corners are nice and square. 

Turn both bags back inside themselves.  Take your pinking shears, leave about an inch seam and trim the corners off to reduce bulk. 

Step 4:  Assemble your handles

Take your handles to your ironing board.  Press both sides in so that they meet in the center of your handle. 

Take your 1 inch strip of Craft Fusible Interfacing and place it under one of the flaps.  Iron in place.

Fold your straps "shut" by folding the entire strap in half.  Now you will have a folded edge and an edge where both of your first folds meet.  Pin this edge shut.  Stitch a quarter inch seam up both sides of your strap.

Turn your outer bag right side out.  Lay it on your cutting board.  Measure 3 inches from the right side seam of your bag. This is where you will place your strap. Pin in place. Repeat on the opposite end of the strap.  Repeat both ends on the backside of your bag.  Baste in place using a 1/8th seam.

Step 5:  Attaching the lining to the outer bag

Leave your outer bag, right side out.  Leave your lining inside out.  Stuff the outer bag inside the lining making sure to stuff your straps down in there too.

 

You are going to pin the top of the outerbag and the lining together (RST).  Start at the side seams, match the lining seam to the outer bag seam so they fit exactly together. 

Continue pinning around the bag, making sure to match the other side seam as well.

Double check to make sure that you left yourself that opening in the lining for turning your bag when you are done sewing the top.

Take it to your sewing machine, and sew a 3/8th seam around the top.  I usually start on the side seam.  Reinforce your stitching.

Put your hand in the side hole that you left yourself.  Pull your bag out and turn your lining so that you can see the right side of that fabric, too.  Now take care of that hole.  Tuck the raw edges of the hole inside itself, pin it shut, sew close to the edge reinforcing your stitching. 

Hooray you are almost done!  Push the lining inside the bag.  You are going to top sew around the top of your bag.  There are 3 purposes for this:  it keeps the lining in place, makes it look nice and neat, and it reinforces your handles.  Before sewing, I like to pin it.  I think it helps keep the lining in place while sewing. 

Go to your sewing machine and sew about a 3/8th seam around the top.  Be careful not to sew down your handles!  I usually begin on the side seam. 

You are done. I had such a fun time, I made 2 bags today.

Would you like to win one?  Leave a comment stating which bag is your favorite.  I will be giving only one away.  Don't forget Charming Guys and Gals, we will be having a Tote Sewing Party on the 17th!  More details to come.

****This giveaway is now closed.  Thanks for visiting.****